When waves come near the shore, which happens to wave height?

When waves come near the shore, which happens to wave height?

• A. The wave height decreases
• B. The wave height increases
• C. The wave height remains constant
• D. Waves disappear

Answer: (B)

As waves move toward the shore, the water becomes shallower, which slows the waves down. Slower waves have shorter wavelengths, and the energy carried by the wave has to fit into this smaller, shallower area. To keep the energy flow consistent, the wave’s height (amplitude) increases. This process is called shoaling, and it continues until the wave becomes too steep and breaks near the beach. So, as waves approach the shore, the wave height increases.

As waves move toward the shore, the water becomes shallower, which slows the waves down. Slower waves have shorter wavelengths, and the energy carried by the wave has to fit into this smaller, shallower area. To keep the energy flow consistent, the wave’s height (amplitude) increases. This process is called shoaling, and it continues until the wave becomes too steep and breaks near the beach. So, as waves approach the shore, the wave height increases.